S&S Calabro Pizza
There are countless pizzerias across the five boroughs in NYC. Although a large number receive well-deserved recognition, there are many that fly under the radar. One is an old school slice joint, S&S Calabro Pizza, located in a less-trafficked part of Astoria, Queens. Even as Astoria’s popularity has surged, the area west of 21st Street is far enough from the train to remain low key. S&S Calabro came on my radar after a friend told me it was a great spot for a classic NYC slice.
For the first visit, I enlisted a fellow Astoria native who now lives near S&S. Walking in felt like taking a step back in time to the pizzerias we grew up on. It has all the marks of an old school pizza shop, from the individual plastic letters on the menu to the counter-top seating. Even the small exhaust fan in the back window brought back memories to places I used to frequent as a kid.
One interesting difference here is that the pizza is kept in a shelved glass container, likely to maximize the small space. We each ordered a regular slice and patiently waited for the re-heat to come out of the oven. Atop the white paper plate, the slice already had the hallmarks of a good one. Thin crust and a balanced distribution of cheese were positive signs. This feeling was confirmed from the first bite. The slice wasn’t overly cheesy and the sauce was zesty and well-applied. The slice is a long one that hangs over the edge of the plate. After quickly devouring them, we each ordered another.
On another visit, the undercarriage of the slice had an excellent crisp. When folded, it let out the “snap” sound that many great NYC slices have. In fact, it reminded my elementary school friend and I of the same place. Frankie’s Pizza, which closed several years ago, was a childhood favorite spot for the both of us. It holds a special place in my memory, as I used to go after school. Also, it was the first place my mom had a “real” New York slice after moving here in the late 70’s.
Over three visits, the quality of the pizza has remained excellent. Each of the native New Yorkers who came with me over these visits agreed that it reminded them of slices they grew up on. S&S serves up a slice of delicious nostalgia. Although I don’t visit this part of Astoria often, S&S Calabro is a reason to. It is a perfect example that there are many hidden gems to be found in this city. Even if you grew up here, there is so much to explore and try.
Leave A Comment