Our Top Local Food in Palermo, Sicily
Palermo is known for its cheap and delicious street food. There are many delicacies in Sicilian capital, from calf spleen sandwiches to sfincione. Although the fare is heavy, wandering through the streets is a great way to burn it off.
Calf Spleen Sandwiches (Pani ca Meusa)
Pani ca Meusa Porta Carbone
Calf Spleen Sandwich from Pani Ca Meusa Porta Carbone
As an adventurous eater, this sandwich was first on the list. First, I stopped at Pani ca Meusa Porta Carbone. Here, each sandwich is assembled with several slices of juicy spleen stewed in lard. Next, it is topped with grated caciocavallo cheese. Finally, several squeezes of lemon add tanginess and balance to the whole package.
Antica Focacceria San Francesco
Antica Focacceria San Francesco’s Pani Ca Meusa
Historic Antica Focacceria San Francesco offers a different version of pani ca meusa. Here, the sandwich comes with a layer of ricotta cheese served on a sesame seed roll with caciocavallo. Also, the ricotta adds creaminess and lessens some of the gamey flavor of the spleen. Thus, this version is best for those who are less into offal.
Overall, both versions of this Palermo staple were enjoyable. However, I preferred the version at Porta Carbone for its simplicity. Most importantly, the place itself was more “no frills” and it showed in the food.
Pizza
Panificio Graziano
Sfincione from Panificio Graziano
Although Panificio Graziano is a 45 minute walk from Quattro Canti, it is a great way to see more of the city. Afterwards, a reward is the delicious aroma of fresh-baked bread. Interestingly, the storefront is more bakery than pizzeria.
Pizza from Panificio Graziano
Unfortunately, they were in the midst of an hour and 15 minute break. Thus, the tantalizing aromas forced me to circle the block several times until they re-opened. As a result, I ordered three slices - two triangular and a sfincione slice. Most noteworthy was the sfincione, a traditional rectangular slice with sauce, onions, a hint of anchovy, topped with caciocavallo cheese. Notably, the crust itself is soft and cut into smaller squares. Ultimately, I devoured this light flavorful slice quickly!
Deep Fried Delights: Arancini and Panelle
Arancine from Friggitoria Chiluzzo
Friggitoria Chiluzzo
Interior of Arancine from Friggitoria Chiluzzo
Immediately, this friendly corner shop lured me in from the aroma. Among the many options, Friggitoria Chiluzzo is an excellent choice for arancine. Specifically, these fried rice balls were filled with ground beef, tomato sauce and peas. Most importantly, the large lunchtime crowd and high turnover ensured fresh product.
Pane e Panelle from Friggitoria Chiluzzo
In addition, I ordered a pane e panelle - a sesame roll filled with fried potato and chickpea fritters. Notably, this was also made to order. Thus, this carb bomb was crisp and delicious. However, it put me in a serious food coma. Fortunately, a day trip to Cefalu was a great place to nap on the beach!
Streetside Seafood
Trattoria Torremuzza Carnevale
Zuppa di Cozze from Trattoria Torremuzza Carnevale
Coveniently, Trattoria Torremuzza Carnevale was a stone’s throw from my Air Bnb in La Kalsa. Despite being under the weather, the seafood display and smoky grill were too tempting to pass up. Although it was past 11PM, the street was lively and restaurant full. Furthermore, I had a front row seat to the local kids playing soccer under street lights.
Grilled Seafood Combo from Trattoria Torremuzza Carnevale
First, a huge bowl of zuppa di cozze (mussels in a tomato and onion soup) arrived. Notably, the hot broth had helped clear up my congestion. Next, the grilled seafood combo appeared. Included was a whole branzino, calamari, two head-on prawns, filet tuna and a generous cut of swordfish. Regrettably, the calamari and tuna were a bit dry. On the other hand, the rest was fresh and cooked perfectly. Ultimately, the entire meal paired nicely with a liter of house red wine.
Sicilian Sweets: Cannoli, Granita and Gelato con Brioche
Pasticceria Cappello
Cannolo and Lemon Granita from Pasticceria Cappello
Adjacent to Via Colonna Rotta, Pasticceria Cappello was full of wonderful smelling pastries. After a long walk, I craved something cold and sweet. Hence, I ordered a granita, a smooth ice that comes in a variety of flsvors. In this case, a tangy lemon fit the bill, refreshing after all of those steps. In addition, their cannoli were light with a mellow ricotta filling.
Bar Liberty
Gelato con Brioche from Bar Liberty
One of the highlights of my time in Palermo was meeting a couple from Queens. Coincidentally, they were also on vacation in Sicily at the time. Since our itineraries overlapped for just a day, Braden and Robin met me for breakfast. Thus, we met at Bar Liberty, a cafe with outdoor seating facing the main drag of Via Vittorio Emanuele.
Upon Braden’s recommendation, I ordered the pistachio gelato stuffed into brioche. In my opinion, creamy gelato and sweet bread is quite a combo under the Sicilian sun. Fittingly, my first “ice cream for breakfast” experience was with good company who lived just minutes away from home! All in all, breakfast al fresco was a great send-off before heading to Catania.
By and large, this trip to Palermo just scratched the surface of the amazing food to be had. Ultimately, this brief visit sparked the desire to return and explore more.
Have you visited any of the spots on this list? Where else would you recommend for a future visit to Palermo? Would love to hear your recommendations and experiences!
PALERMO MAP
| Title | Category | Address | Description | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
 | Bar Liberty | Via Vittorio Emanuele, 349, Palermo, 90134 Province of Palermo, Italy | Phone: +39 091 328928 | |
| Pasticceria Cappello | Via Colonna Rotta, 68, Palermo, 90134 Province of Palermo, Italy | Phone: +39 091 489601 | |
| Trattoria Torremuzza Carnevale | Via Torremuzza, 21, Palermo, 90133 Province of Palermo, Italy | Phone: +39 380 766 3321 | |
| Friggitoria Chiluzzo | Piazza Marina, 10, Palermo, 90133 Province of Palermo, Italy | ||
| Panificio Graziano | Via del Granatiere, 11/13, Palermo, 90143 Province of Palermo, Italy | Phone: +39 091 625 4800 | |
| Antica Focacceria San Francesco | Via Alessandro Paternostro, 58, Palermo, 90133 Province of Palermo, Italy | Phone: +39 091 320264 | |
| Pani Ca Meusa Porta Carbone | Via Cala, 62, Palermo, 90133 Province of Palermo, Italy | Phone: +39 091 323433 |
Great post! Those arancine look absolutely amazing! I love a savory pastry.
Thank you! Those arancine were so fresh and tasty
So when I think if Sicily and food, my natural thought is Seafood Italian style. And your photos definitely fit the bill. However the rectangular pizza looks amazing to me and the Arancine is right up my alley for sure. I hope if you get the Calf Spleen Sandwich in Palermo, Sicily they serve it with a side of lipitor cause that fatty meat cooked in lard sounds sooo yummy but artery clogging for sure!
The rectangular pizza was excellent - different than any other I had in the US. That probably is a good call with the Lipitor! haha
Oh come on!! We visited Palermo for two days during our Sicilian road trip, and I have to admit that we haven’t really explored the street food scene. Obviously, we did gobble on cannoli and arancini each time we had the opportunity, we also had one of the best meals of that trip in Palermo (paccheri pasta with gambero rosso- it doesn’t get any better than that!). But, we left Palermo without trying the Gelato con Brioche (and apparently, that’s a sin), and without trying the Pani Ca Meusa (Gosh, that one with ricotta AND caccio cavallo.Heaven.). One more reason to come back! Thank you, I loved going through all that delicious Palermitan food!
Oh that paccheri pasta with gambero rosso sounds excellent! Didn’t get enough pasta while in Sicily, but that can be chalked up to traveling solo. The Pani Ca Meusa is a MUST! Hope you can go back and have what you weren’t able to on the first go around. Thanks for reading and glad you enjoyed!
Oh… I’m drowning in saliva… Yes, that is a gross statement… But the tasty treats you presented had me excited like Pavlov’s dog on an Italian canine vacation.
I too am an adventurous eater and I have never had Calf Spleen, so I would happily put that on my culinary adventure list. I’m obviously not a vegetarian either.
I will be bookmarking this page for when we get into our Mediterranian trip planning.
Thanks for sharing. Keep travel blogging. Adventure is better shared with friends!
Haha! Thanks for reading and glad you enjoyed. The calf spleen is a MUST when in Palermo
I’m not even sure what I would want to taste first! It all looks so good! I have a feeling when I visit Italy I’ll really like all the food there. I’ll definitely want to eat pizza, but I would love to try the spleen sandwich and the griggitoria chiluzzo to see how they taste. I’m not too adventurous with food, but this is something that looks good to try.
One of the toughest things is deciding which food to eat first! Usually, we go with whichever is closest to where we are staying. The spleen sandwich was so good and so uniquely Palermitan. Even if you say you aren’t adventurous, it is great that you are open to trying it - many people would be squeamish!
I am not an adventurous eater, so I would pass on the calf spleen:) Anything deep-fried is fine with me though! I also love that gelato sandwich. I’m going to have to try making that at home.
Haha - if nobody told you what it was and just put it in front of you, bet you would enjoy it! That gelato sandwich is excellent - all you would need is a nice brioche roll with your favorite gelato and there you have it!
Note to self: do not read food blogs when hungry! lol. I love exploring a city and eating some of the local foods and flavours. Glad you got to experience the taste of Italy!
Haha - that is probably sage advice! Exploring a city through its local food and markets is always a treat. Thank you! Can’t wait to explore more of the incredible culinary scene in Italy someday.
Yummy! No one does Italian food like the Italians do. But, of course. Your post brought back memories of freshly baked pizza. That fragrance is unforgettable. And all the endless gelatos that we had during our trip…. 🙂
And how! Pizza in Naples was an incredible experience later in this trip, even if only for a few hours! You are right - that fresh-baked pizza aroma is unreal!
Okay, now I’m hungry! Give me all the pizza, please! And seafood…and anything deep fried. Okay, so everything! I just love the food here, thanks for sharing 🙂
Thank you for reading! Glad we made you hungry - it was such a good mix of dishes in Palermo that was unique. Can’t go wrong with fresh seafood and deep fried foods
Oh I love a good food tour. Yours looks quite nice and tasty. The arancini would have been my favorite part but the calf’s speen…not sure about that one. I think Palermo is my favorite part of Italy.
Thank you! Arancini is great, especially when freshly fried. As far as the calf spleen - don’t knock it til you try it! Palermo was awesome - had such a cool feel to it with lots of history and gritty streets.